When I was 8 years old, my mother sent my sister and me to live with our paternal grandparents. She was coming to the States to prepare for our arrival, and she decided that our grandparents should spend some time with us before we moved to the United States.

My grandparents lived in Zulia, located northwest of Venezuela, around Maracaibo Lake. This lake is the largest water body in Latin America, and its basin covers one of the largest oil and gas reserves in the Western Hemisphere.

Maracaibo is the state capital, with the second-largest population (Caracas being the first) among Venezuelan states. Like any country, each state is known for its personality. Maracuchos (the population of Maracaibo), as they are referred to, are loud, talk fast, and cuss like sailors—and I mean everyone, from toddlers to grandmas.

Maracaibo also has the most varied street food. Every corner has a “bodegita” (small store), which is usually the back of someone’s house in the neighborhood, and they are generally known for some food snack or specialty. You will have the bodegita with the empanadas, or the bodegita that sells the raspaditos (ice cones), or the one that sells the homemade “tortas” (cakes) You can pretty much have a full meal around the neighborhood just by walking it.

I first tried a “Patacon” in Maracaibo, made from sliced green unripe plantains, cut either lengthwise or widthwise, and twice fried. You could eat them as chips or crips. But, in Maracaibo, they have elevated and used them instead of bread. Have you ever tried a Patacon hamburger? You have no idea what you are missing.

This is also where I tried my first Mandoca. These breakfast snacks are a corn ring that can be enjoyed while still hot, with butter and cheese. It is made of corn meal, grated queso blanco (hard, salty, white cheese), sugar, or Papelón, the molasses-like sugar left over from sugar cane processing, and mashed plantains that must be very ripe when used. Look for yellow plantains, which is the color in between green (unripe) and black (very ripe)

A couple of weeks ago, I was going through my cookbook library and came across a recipe. I realized that I had everything I needed to whip it up, so I made it for breakfast. They were just as tasty as I remembered – sweet, with a bit of tang from the queso blanco. They are a cross between hush puppies and the batter used for corn dogs – which, in my opinion, is not a bad thing at all.

I hope you enjoy a bit of my birth country in your kitchen.

MANDOCAS – Sweet Corn Plantain Fritters

Makes about 12-15

1 yellow plantain
2 cups yellow cornmeal
¾ cup dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons anise seeds, toasted (optional)
8 ounces of grated firm white cheese, like farmers’ cheese or queso blanco, finely grated
1/2 cup hot water, approximately
Canola oil for frying (enough to cover them, about 1-2 cups)

Slice the plantains crosswise into about five pieces, then place in a saucepan and cover with water. Simmer gently until tender, about 15–20 minutes.

Drain and let the plantains cool enough to handle, then peel and mash well (or purée in a food processor or blender).

With a wooden spoon, stir cornmeal, plantains, salt, anise seed, sugar, and finely grated cheese until the mixture resembles dough. Slowly add water, a couple of tablespoons at a time, until the mixture comes together.

The dough should be soft and kneadable, but not sticky. Let dough rest for ten minutes.

Heat several inches of oil to 350 degrees. Divide the dough into 16 pieces and roll each one into a smooth ball. (If the dough is too wet and sticky, add more cornmeal.)

Take each ball and roll it into a log shape with the palms of your hands. Then, continue rolling on a countertop until the dough cylinder is 6-7 inches long. Bring the ends together and overlap them to form a tear-shaped loop, then press the ends together. Repeat this process with the remaining pieces of dough.

Fry loops of dough in oil until dark golden brown, turning once.

Serve mandocas warm, with slices of queso fresco and/or butter.