When I was eight years old, my mother sent my sister and me to live with our paternal grandparents. She was coming to the States to prepare for our arrival, and she decided it was the perfect time for our grandparents to spend some quality time with us before we moved to the United States.

My grandparents lived in Zulia, located in the northwest of Venezuela, around Lake Maracaibo. This lake is the largest body of water in Latin America, and its basin holds one of the biggest oil and gas reserves in the Western Hemisphere.

Maracaibo, the state capital, has the second-largest population in the country (Caracas takes first place). Like any country, each state in Venezuela has its own personality, and let me tell you—Maracaibo’s is loud and proud. Maracuchos (the people of Maracaibo) talk fast, laugh loud, and cuss like sailors—and I mean everyone, from toddlers to grandmas.

One of the best things about Maracaibo is its incredible street food culture. Every corner has a “bodegita” (a little neighborhood store), usually set up in the back of someone’s house, each famous for their specialty snack. There’s the bodegita with the empanadas, the one selling raspaditos (shaved ice cones), or the one known for their homemade tortas (cakes). Honestly, you can eat your way through the neighborhood just by walking around—it’s like a progressive dinner, Maracucho style.

I first tried a Patacón in Maracaibo — made from sliced, green unripe plantains, cut either lengthwise or widthwise, and fried twice. You can enjoy them as chips or crisps, but in Maracaibo, they’ve taken it to another level: they use them instead of bread. Have you ever tried a Patacón hamburger? If not… you have no idea what you’re missing.

This is also where I had my very first Mandoca. These breakfast snacks are golden corn rings best enjoyed hot, with butter and cheese. They’re made from cornmeal, grated queso blanco (a hard, salty white cheese), sugar or papelón (a molasses-like sugar from sugar cane), and mashed very ripe plantains. Look for yellow plantains—the sweet spot between green (unripe) and black (super ripe).

A couple of weeks ago, while browsing through my cookbook library, I stumbled upon a Mandoca recipe. I realized I had everything on hand, so I whipped up a batch for breakfast. They were exactly as I remembered, sweet, with a little tang from the queso blanco. Think of them as somewhere between hush puppies and corn dog batter… which, in my opinion, is not a bad thing at all.

I hope this brings a little taste of my birth country into your kitchen.

MANDOCAS – Sweet Corn Plantain Fritters

Makes about 12-15

1 yellow plantain
2 cups yellow cornmeal
¾ cup dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons anise seeds, toasted (optional)
8 ounces of grated firm white cheese, like farmers’ cheese or queso blanco, finely grated
1/2 cup hot water, approximately
Canola oil for frying (enough to cover them, about 1-2 cups)

Slice the plantains crosswise into about five pieces, then place in a saucepan and cover with water. Simmer gently until tender, about 15–20 minutes.

Drain and let the plantains cool enough to handle, then peel and mash well (or purée in a food processor or blender).

With a wooden spoon, stir cornmeal, plantains, salt, anise seed, sugar, and finely grated cheese until the mixture resembles dough. Slowly add water, a couple of tablespoons at a time, until the mixture comes together.

The dough should be soft and kneadable, but not sticky. Let dough rest for ten minutes.

Heat several inches of oil to 350 degrees. Divide the dough into 16 pieces and roll each one into a smooth ball. (If the dough is too wet and sticky, add more cornmeal.)

Take each ball and roll it into a log shape with the palms of your hands. Then, continue rolling on a countertop until the dough cylinder is 6-7 inches long. Bring the ends together and overlap them to form a tear-shaped loop, then press the ends together. Repeat this process with the remaining pieces of dough.

Fry loops of dough in oil until dark golden brown, turning once.

Serve mandocas warm, with slices of queso fresco and/or butter.